Caol Ila 1997 / Managers' Choice / Sherry Cask

Colour:  Gloriously attractive; clear, sparkly amber. Lightly viscous.

Nose:  Instant. Fresh. Invigorating. At first, acetic dryness fuses with honey, Beech wood-smoke, salty sea air and lemon juice. Wood-smoke rapidly becomes full-on coal tar as phenols move to the fore. Then, with water, a subtle, tropical fruit sweetness plays with its savoury partners; toasted cumin, porcini and sage-butter.

Body:  Light. Soft.

Palate:  Instant phenol. Sensuous. Coating. Pure smoke briefly cut through by a honeyed sweetness. Later fresh fennel and tarragon; followed by drying, oaky, vanilla and crunchy, grainy cereals.

Finish:  Long and smooth; sweet, smoky, herbal, earthy and peppery. Traces of clove. Splendidly savoury: the earthiness of beetroot, roasted with salt and virgin olive oil in a wood fired oven. Comforting late smoky breath. Complete.

Comment:  An outstanding whisky that just can’t help playing games with us: Is it sweet? Where’s the acid gone. Nope - here’s the lemon. Wait, where’s the honey? But that’s olive oil! Throughout, an unpredictable interplay of sweet, tart, savoury and smoky notes; astonishingly fresh and ferociously appetising. Caol Ila never fails to engage, surprise and delight.