Nose: amazingly original at first nosing, starting on old kelp, oysters, fishmonger’s… Also tar, diesel oil, well hung pheasant. All that settles down then and we get more ‘regular’ nuts, cigar box, leather, caramel crème and vanilla – and let’s not forget the spices (curry, lots of cinnamon)… A fantastic and unusual profile.
Mouth: bold, ample, spicy attack, with a great sourness (small apples, grape skin). Gets quite acrid but that’s great in this context. Superb sharpness. Develops on ‘genuine’ liquorice, something varnishy, tea, notes of Fino (flor, old walnuts). Hints of kiwi and green apples. Beautiful and highly original. Long finish mostly on fresh apples and cinnamon… I love it, I think it’s a masterpiece. 91 points.
[Please note that these tasting notes are for the 2006 edition of this whisky]