At 37 years old, this is the oldest cask of malt whisky we have ever bottled. It is an amazing survivor of a distant era; a 'once in a lifetime' dram. We felt that it was like some very old wines; wonderfully rewarding. The distillery was once run by WE Gladstone's father, and takes its name from the village where it stands, in the heart of the fertile Mearns, Aberdeenshire. The colour is that of third pressing olive oil, hazy with dim smoke; we have never encountered such a hue before. The nose is mild and elusive: a hint of burnt toast, then cooked apricots and other fruits; some nutty notes and a hint of moss. Water brings out old books or warm paper, with distant stilton notes; beware how much you add, the merest teaspoon is enough. The flavour is both sweet and dry, with a distinct but obscure fruitiness, some gingery or spicy notes, and an oiliness which is characteristic of the make. There is no trace of wood in spite of its great age. This is a fragile old lady, but she still has all her wits about her.