This distillery at Montrose was founded in 1957 by the redoubtable Joseph Hobbes on the site of an 18th century brewery. It has had a chequered career since 1973 and has now been demolished, so its malt is very rare. This is a fantastic whisky, by any standards. It has come from an Oloroso butt and is deep magenta in colour, with an unreduced nose which speaks of prune juice and burnt sugar with a faint iodine note. Water increases its complexity: we found it difficult to describe because of its many interlocking layers of aroma. Mixed berries, forest fruits, blackcurrants and pencil erasers were all mentioned. Tasted neat it is sweet, rich, oily and lightly rubbery; with a little water its full richness is appreciated, its sweetness like puff candy, the oiliness remaining in the aftertaste. A malt to dwell on.