
Cognac
Cognac is rightly regarded as the finest of all the spirits distilled from grapes. It exhibits an abundance of qualities: fruit, subtle aromas, warmth, intensity and – above all – complexity, with thousands of flavours all stemming from predominantly one grape variety.
Rémy Martin is one of the 'big four' Cognac houses, along with Hennessy, Martell and Courvoisier
The basics
About 80 miles or so north of Bordeaux lie the two picture-postcard towns of Cognac and Jarnac, the heart of the Cognac industry. The region, stretching from La Rochelle in the north to Royan in the west and Angoulème in the east, is home to nearly 6,000 grape growers who supply white wine for distillation, predominantly made with the Ugni Blanc variety (aka Trebbiano).
These wines are characterised by high acidity and low alcohol – not something you’d particularly want to drink as they are, but perfect for distillation, which takes place (twice) in copper stills, or alembics. The eau-de-vie is then aged in Limousin or Tronçais oak barrels; the latter has a tighter grain, and imparts fewer tannins than the powerful Limousin, making it better suited to maturing Cognacs for longer. Finally, the spirit is usually cut with water to 40% abv.
Ageing gracefully
Cognac has a number of categories, which reflect the time each one has spent in barrel. VS (‘Very Special’) Cognacs must contain eaux-de-vie no younger than two years old; VSOPs (‘Very Superior Old Pale’) must be at least four years old; and for XO (‘Extra Old’), as well as bottles labelled ‘Napoléon’, ‘Extra’ and ‘Hors d’âge’, it’s six years, although this will rise to 10 years from 2018 (with the exception of Napoléon). That said, in practice, the vast majority of XO Cognacs contain eaux-de-vie much, much older than the legal minimum.
Most VS Cognacs are designed to be drunk long (with, say, ginger ale or tonic and a dash of bitters) or in a cocktail; VSOPs can either be mixed or drunk neat; XOs really should be enjoyed on their own – the extended ageing adds a multitude of flavours and aromas, many of which would be lost in a cocktail. The complexity of some XOs can be extraordinary, many of which displaying the elusive rancio character, redolent of dried fruits and Christmas cake.
The concept of terroir is perfectly demonstrated in Cognac, too; the region is divided into six Crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois and Bois Ordinaires. There are notable differences between each one, with Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie noted for their power and finesse; Borderies for their fruity, floral notes, and so on. Cognacs made from at least 50% Grande Champagne and the rest from Petite Champagne can also bear the term ‘Fine Champagne’ on the bottle. And it’s worth knowing that ‘Champagne’ in this part of the world has nothing to do with the fizzy stuff – it refers to the chalky soil that is found throughout the region.
Did you know?
- the equivalent of 20 million bottles of Cognac are lost each year due to evaporation (‘The Angel’s Share’)
- just 3% of all Cognac produced is drunk in France
- if you visit the Cognac region, you’ll come across warehouses covered in what looks like black soot. This is actually a fungus, torula compniacensis, that feeds on the evaporating Cognac vapours
Typical Character and Style of Cognac
-
Oak
-
Christmas Cake
-
Dried tea
-
Toffee
-
Marmalade
-
Grape
Sort & Filter
Classification
Region
Producer
Price Range (£10 to 1,000)
Age
Vintage
Strength
Size
Single Cask
Colouring
Delamain Pale & Dry CognacBot.1970s
£275
(£404.41 per litre)
Courvoisier VSOP Liqueur CognacBot.1980s
£175
(£257.35 per litre)
Courvoisier 3 Star CognacBot.1970s
£199
(£292.65 per litre)
Remy Martin VSOP CognacFine Champagne Bot.1980s
£175
(£250 per litre)
Hine 1987 CognacGrande Champagne Landed 1990 Bot.2004
£175
(£250 per litre)
Remy Martin VSOPBot.1980s
£150
(£220.59 per litre)
Gaston de Lagrange VSOP CognacBot.1970s
£125
(£183.82 per litre)
Denis-Mounié 1926Grande Champagne
£1,000
(£1,333.33 per litre)
Martell 3 Stars CognacBot.1980s
£150
(£214.29 per litre)
Hine 1985 CognacGrande Champagne Landed 1987 Bot.2002
£199
(£284.29 per litre)
Camus CelebrationHouse of Commons Bot.1970s
£299
(£436.50 per litre)
Martell VSOP CognacBot.1950s
£650
(£866.67 per litre)
Pinet Castillon Cognac 1920Grande Fine Champagne
£900
(£1,200 per litre)
Harvey's 1904 CognacGrande Fine Champagne Bot.1957
£1,000
(£1,428.57 per litre)
Rouyer Guillet 50 Year OldBot.1950s Reserve De L'Ange
£1,000
(£1,428.57 per litre)
Sazerac de ForgeFine Champagne Royale Bot.1950s
£1,000
(£1,333.33 per litre)
John Exshaw Very Old CognacBot.1960s
£299
(£439.71 per litre)
Rouyer Guillet 50 Year OldBot.1950s Reserve De L'Ange
£1,000
(£1,428.57 per litre)
Frapin Chateau de FontpinotGrande Champagne Bot.1970s
£250
(£342.46 per litre)
Hennessy Extra CognacBot.1970s
£900
(£1,323.53 per litre)
Hardy 3 Stars CognacBot.1980s
£99.95
(£142.78 per litre)
Hardy 3 Stars CognacBot.1970s
£120
(£171.43 per litre)
Martell Cordon Argent CognacBot.1970s
£1,000
(£1,333.33 per litre)
Martell Cordon Argent CognacBot.1970s
£1,000
(£1,333.33 per litre)
Martell Cordon Argent Extra CognacBot.1980s
£850
(£1,214.29 per litre)
Frapin Chateau de FontpinotGrande Champagne Bot.1960s
£325
(£445.20 per litre)
Frapin Chateau de FontpinotGrande Champagne Bot.1970s
£275
(£376.72 per litre)
Matthew Gloag Very Fine Old CognacBot.1960s
£450
(£633.80 per litre)
Remy Martin Age InconnuGrande Champagne Bot.1970s
£800
(£1,066.67 per litre)
Bisquit Dubouche Extra VieilleGrande Champagne Bot.1980s
£399
(£570 per litre)
Remy Martin Age InconnuGrande Champagne Bot.1960s
£850
(£1,214.29 per litre)
Courvoisier 3 Stars Luxe CognacBot.1970s US Gallon
£600
(£158.73 per litre)
Courvoisier 3 Stars Luxe CognacBot.1970s
£600
(£158.73 per litre)
Denis-Mounié Extra CognacGrande Champagne Bot.1970s
£600
(£882.35 per litre)
Renault Carte Noire ExtraBot.1970s
£399
(£570 per litre)
Martell Cordon Argent CognacBot.1970s
£1,000
(£1,333.33 per litre)
Courvoisier 3 Stars CognacBot.1950s
£399
(£570 per litre)
Bisquit Dubouche TriompheBot.1960s
£650
(£890.41 per litre)
Hine Antique CognacFine Champagne Bot.1960s
£700
Courvoisier Extra VieilleBaccarat Crystal Bot.1970s
£1,000
(£1,324.50 per litre)
Delamain Pale & Dry CognacBot.1970s
£275
(£404.41 per litre)
Etienne Gasqueton Grand Empereur Cognac60 Year Old Bot.1960s
£1,000
(£1,333.33 per litre)
Courvoisier VSOP Liqueur CognacBot.1970s
£225
(£330.88 per litre)
Boulestin 3 Stars CognacBot.1960s
£120
(£164.38 per litre)
Guillot VSOP Cognac20 Years Old Bot.1960s
£299
(£409.59 per litre)
Renault Carte Noire Extra CognacBot.1970s
£500
(£684.93 per litre)
Hine AntiqueBot.1970s
£350
(£514.71 per litre)
Frapin Chateau de FontpinotGrande Champagne Bot.1970s
£299
(£427.14 per litre)
John Exshaw Age d'Or CognacBot.1950s
£750
(£1,071.43 per litre)
Gautier Freres 1937 CognacBot.1950s
£900
(£1,323.53 per litre)
Denis-Mounié Edouard VII CognacGrande Reserve Bot.1970s
£250
(£357.14 per litre)
Martell VOP 3 Stars Cognac240th Anniversary Bot.1956
£1,000
(£1,369.86 per litre)
Raymond Ragnaud Heritage CognacCrystal Decanter Bot.80s
£850
(£1,214.29 per litre)
Martell Cordon Bleu CognacBot.1960s
£700
(£1,029.41 per litre)
Martell VOP 3 Stars CognacBot.1960s
£250
(£333.33 per litre)
Berry Bros 1930 Arthenac CognacPetite Champagne Bot.1976
£550
(£808.82 per litre)
John Exshaw 1935 CognacVVSOP Fine Champagne Bot.1960s
£1,000
(£1,428.57 per litre)
Martell VOP 3 Stars CognacBot.1950s
£450
(£900 per litre)
Hine 1973 CognacGrande Champagne Landed 1977 Bot.1990 The Savoy Hotel
£400
(£571.43 per litre)
Prunier Vieux CognacBot.1970s
£750
(£1,071.43 per litre)