A Short Guide to Laphroaig

How do you sum up a distillery like Laphroaig?

Laphroaig is in the south east of the island of Islay, one of the three (soon to be four) along the southern Kildalton coast. Like many distilleries on the island, it is well-known for producing smoky whiskies, made with barley that has been smoked using peat. Laphroaig is a little different to the others, malting some of its own barley and using peat from its own banks, giving it a distinctly medicinal smokiness.

How did Laphroaig begin?

Laphroaig distillery was, at least officially, founded in 1815 by Alexander and Donald Johnston, and the distillery stayed under family ownership until the 1950s. Donald took sole ownership in the 1830s, but tragedy struck in 1847 when he died after falling into a vat of boiling pot ale. His son Dugald started managing Laphroaig in 1857 when he hit 21, and the Johnston family resumed their otherwise unbroken stewardship of the distillery.

Who was Bessie Williamson?

In 1954, Ian Hunter, a cousin of founder Donald Johnston’s daughter Isabella, died, leaving the distillery to his personal assistant and secretary, Bessie Williamson. She had arrived at the distillery in the early 1930s and had been day-to-day distillery manager since the beginning of World War II, doing a lot more than her seemingly lowly job title might suggest.

When Williamson took over as owner, single malt Scotch whisky was starting to explode. She’d seen the way the tide was turning, and was one of the key figures in promoting Scotch overseas, becoming the Scotch Whisky Association’s US spokesperson in 1961. While she sold her stake in the distillery to Long John in the 1960s and 1970s, she continued as managing director until she retired in 1972, an influential 40-year career in the whisky industry behind her. Her name lives on in independent bottlings – casks of the distillery’s spirit are often sold under the name Williamson rather than Laphroaig.

Who owns Laphroaig today?

Sales and acquisitions continued from the 1970s up until the present day. Most recently, as part of Suntory purchasing Jim Beam – who had bought Laphroaig from Pernod Ricard, who in turn bought it from Allied, who bought it from Long John, who had bought it from Bessie Williamson – Laphroaig is now in the portfolio of Suntory Global Spirits.

It is now a part of a collection of some of Scotland’s best known whiskies, alongside Ardmore, Glen Garioch, Auchentoshan and neighbour Bowmore.

How as Laphroaig 10 Year Old developed?

Throughout its modern history, the core whisky of the Laphroaig range has been the 10 Year Old. It’s a divisive dram, medicinal and smoky in a way that’s a shock to those not used to it. While it can be a turn off for some, it’s unique character has picked up fans from around the world.

Laphroaig 10 Year Old’s character has changed slowly over the years, as production has varied and tastes have changed. But it remains the distillery’s flagship, showing off the core character of Laphroaig.

What does Laphroaig 10 Year Old taste like?

Nose: Singed lemons, cresosote-painted fences and pink shrimp sweets. There’s wood smoke and bung-cloth, with TCP and seaspray, as well as sweetness – toffee and candied citrus peel.

Palate: Oily on the palate, with charcoal and coal stoves to start. It’s not as sweet as on the nose, with layers of smoke, brine and hints of smoked fish. The initial dryness gives way to some gently fruity notes, with waxy apples joined by candied lemon and bitter Seville orange.

Finish: Barrel char, cinnamon spice and hints of fruit. A bonfire sits on the tongue, slowly fading to sweet anise.

Comment: Not as fruity as some of the older bottles, focusing on the core Laphroaig medicinal character with wood smoke as backup. Intense, distinctive and definitely Laphroaig.